Disclaimer: This is for 07-09 model FJ's. I am uncertain if the newer models are the same part numbers.
2 of the pulleys are the same. These are the pulleys next to the alternator and power steering pump (Idler No. 2).
The pulley on the very bottom below the AC compressor is a double bearing pulley (Idler No. 1).
There is a pulley on the tensioner itself that is reverse thread. It is a separate part number form the others (Tensioner).
I have found that Febest Auto Parts has the simplest ordering system for these pulleys.
https://febestparts.com/catalog/cat/PUL ... 7_%5BUS%5D
If using Febest, you will need:
1 x 0188-1GRFE (Idler No. 1)
2 x 0188-2GRFE (Idler No. 2)
1 x 0187-GRJ200 (Tensioner)
Total price minus shipping is $84.92
If you want a new bolt for the tensioner pulley, you would use 0187-GSU45, but you can reuse the old bolt with no issues.
Rock Auto is a little more confusing as they do not label their pulleys like Febest. They simply label their pulleys with an "upper" and "lower" designation, so you have to look carefully at the pictures to in order to get the Tensioner pulley. Idler No. 1 and Idler No. 2 are simple.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toy ... ulley,6956
These are the part numbers I just recently ordered from Rock Auto. I had a spare Idler No. 2 so I only needed to order 3 pulleys.
As you can see, Febest is a little cheaper, but I did get 1 Gates pulley and word on the street is that they are the best. Ill be the judge of that next swimming trip.
Replacing them is very simple. Use a long handle ratchet with a 14mm socket.
Loosen the tensioner and slip the belt off.
All the pulley bolts are 14mm, you just need to remember that the Tensioner pulley is reverse threads.
Should be a 10-30 minute job tops. I will try to take photos of the replacement process and update this post with them.
Excellent advice Sparky. I always carry a spare belt, but never thought about the diagram. What happened to the good ole days when they used to stamp the belt diagram on the under side of the hood?SparkyofSoCal wrote: ↑Tue Apr 09, 2019 6:58 pmJust to add a little side note. I have carried a spare belt for years just to be safe. Then one day it hit me that it would take me forever to figure out how to thread the belt on correctly. I copied a diagram similar to the one you illustrate and since put it with the belt.
Assuming you successfully stopped the whine, were you able to determine which pulley was at fault?
Yes. They were all in not great shape, but the real culprit was the Duralast pulley that was closest to the alternator. I had already warrantied that one once, so I said fuck going with Duralast again. You couldnt hardly spin the pulley while it was in your hand because the bearings were so bad.Wheelinyotas wrote: ↑Thu Apr 11, 2019 12:04 pmAssuming you successfully stopped the whine, were you able to determine which pulley was at fault?
The others spun just fine but you could tell that they were getting close so I just replaced them. I cleaned up the old ones, minus the Duralast, and put them in the back for emergency road spares.
Keep in mind this is for the Idler No. 2 pulleys. The tensioner and Idler No. 1 pulley are a different bearing.
I watched this redneck press the bearings out with a hammer, so I figured I would give it a try.
Low and behold, the bearing pressed right out with a hammer and socket. I pressed the new bearing in using the same method. I now have a brand new idler pulley for $5! I highly recommend this route. Much better than $25-35 for a new pulley.
Bad bearing pressed out-
Used a 29mm socket to press the new bearing in-
Rebuilt idler pulley-